The Cinque Terre,
the string of five towns clinging precariously to the most rugged
portion of Liguria’s coastline, is back. Ligurian farmers have been
reclaiming the wild slopes with neat stone terraces for over 2000 years
but catastrophic flooding in late 2011 wiped out the centuries of work
put into the terraced vineyards and parts of the famed paths connecting
the towns. In the intervening year and a half, the locals have gone to
heroic lengths to rebuild the terraces, dig out the paths, and repair
the damaged buildings. Steep cliffs and car-free towns made construction
and debris removal highly challenging, but it’s looking better than
ever today. Walking is the essential way to experience Cinque Terre, but
don’t race: Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore -
each village has its own personality. Along the way, be sure to explore
the small hidden beaches below and climb to the heights at the five
scenic sanctuaries perched above the towns.
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